There was no output. Well there was but at mv peak. It is suppose to be closer to 1 volt. Replaced and the output is now big and strong. The panel meter has been pegged full right since i started. I fixed that by fixing the AGC.
The issue for this was on the IF board. After fixing these last 2 items the radio speaker started to produce a static hiss. Still missing Q5 the main rf input Amp for now but I will have my adapter boards on Monday. Seems I almost have the receiver portion going.
Nick » Mon Oct 05, am. I can hear it on the speaker but the S-meter didn't budge. Found that the was a problem with Gate 2 of Q1 on the IF board. The S-meter is now deflecting with a signal input. However it is not deflecting as high as it should. This may have something to do with the RF front end of the unit. I will have to look into this. Once that is resolved I think the receiver should be functional and I will be able to string an antenna up for listening.
Then I will look into transmitting. I will use the 50ohm wet dummy load I build this weekend for this purpose. Attached are pictures of the Q1 IF board transistor mount was a tight area to work in as well as the Q5 RF board replacement which was originally missing when I got the unit. Just to show how the adapter looks. Nick » Tue Oct 06, pm. October 6, Good news well mostly, I caught a cold which is not so good.
Any way on Monday I looked into the weak s meter deflection with the rf signal gen input. The voltages were the same on all but one pin. Replaced it with another smd part with one of my little adapter boards. When I turned on the radio after replacing this the s meter went off the scale, which is good as the rf gen was still attached.
The cal signal was present and audible now as well. However the cal signal was present even when it shouldn't be with only vfo selected. Looked into this an hour ago suspected and was correct in that D7 and D8 wired to the vfo switch were shorted cause voltage to always be present on the cal unit. Replaced those with 1ns.
Fixed that issue. I put a short wire into the ant jack and I am hearing ssb and cw signals. Looking good. Next I will check out transmit. Just waiting for the caulk to dry on the dummy load I am making. I may have to start working on an antenna setup soon. Nick » Thu Oct 08, pm. October 8, Just a quick update. Last night I adjusted the VFO to be within specs of the 4.
I was going to look into transmitting. I connected the 50ohm dummy load to it and attempted to switch the unit to transmit on tune. There was no output and the IP meter was at 0 for plate current. Found out that driver tube was cracked. I will need to locate a 12BY7A. This may have been my fault when I was checking things out a couple months back. Hopefully everything else is okay. Nick » Fri Oct 23, pm. I replaced the cracked tube and tested the transmitter using a homemade dummy load.
Transmitting seems fine and I started to practice the tune up procedure. During this I found that the RF meter was not reading properly. It turned out the POT was bad for the adjustment on the side. I verified that there is indeed a problem with the 28mhz and They are set 1mhz low. One is in the cb band, the other I don't know.
Everything else seems to be working now otherwise. I get over watts out on all bands based on rms voltage squared over resistance of 50 ohms. I also built myself a microphone based on an electret mic and a small momentary switch.
Got the 4 pin connector from radio shack. Some pictures below. Homemade 50 ohm Dummy load for testing transmit:. Finally we found these, in the inventory of a distributor who specializes in obsolete parts. These are 0. They come with an extra post, as you can see on the two in the back of the picture. We remove the post, countersink the hole on our mill and use a screw in its place. We wanted to sell it for the same price as our other relays, but the distributor knows his are the only ones in the world and will not come down any further on price.
There are a limited number of these available, and so we ask for a limit of two per customer. For the time being, we will not put these up on our ebay store, as that would require an even higher price. These are the other high voltage caps in a Hybrid. Higher ripple current and lower ESR than the originals. They are 12v 50ma. They slide right into the little rubber sleeves for mounting.
We recommend recapping these radios, which are all approaching 35 years of age, or older. Read what Elna, the original manufacture of just about all the caps in the Hybrids, has to say about cap life here , and my own treatise on the subject, here. The kits are complete, including the HV caps listed above. The early Hybrid boards are wired all from one side so they can be tilted away from the chassis, and the later models have plug in removable PC boards.
We will get an accurate picture for each up here, soon. The has 50 caps, the S, When you have low power out, pretty much across all bands, on the order of watts, you probably need this kit. It replaces 3 parts in the final section, C7, C8, and L1. These parts can be damaged from years of use and abuse, and can definitely limit power.
All the power from the final tubes goes through C7, a. It must be a class 1 cap, and they are very hard to find these days. Many people are using 3 smaller pf caps in parallel. We use a ceramic. They get damaged from over driving and these are the exact ones you need. These are metal film, non inductive and do not age near as badly as the old ones when over heated.
The cathode and screen resistors are found on the final board, and the ohm resistor is found on the rectifier board. This Kit consists of twenty M4 x 8mm Phillips Pan Head case screws, enough to replace all the case screws for any , , , or These are authorized reproductions on heavy bond stock and printed at excellent resolution.
All the foldouts are there and very easy to read, just like the original. You can get these manuals on line, but nothi ng beats having a hard copy right on your bench where you can quickly refer to it. These manuals just make working on your Hybrid so much easier and they hold up well. These are the manuals we use in our shop when trouble shooting and aligning. That is what makes the originals so valuable. This is the contact cleaner and lubricant we use in our shop.
It removes corrosion and lubricates and continues to work on the part for years. It really does last a long time. Read more about the condition Brand New: A new, unread, unused book in perfect condition with no missing or damaged pages. See all condition definitions opens in a new window or tab. Compatible Brand:. Compatible Model:. Publication Name:. Does not apply. Search within store. Visit Store: Lacey Communications. Icom Manuals. Kenwood Manuals. Yaesu Manuals.
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